I promised this post literally two weeks ago. Ugh. But better late than absolutely never.
Last November my husband and I went on our very belated honeymoon/first anniversary trip to Scotland. Specifically Glasgow and Inverness. We had originally booked an all-inclusive to Cancun and about a month later decided to change the trip entirely.
We stayed for a long weekend, renting an Air Bnb in the Merchant City area of Glasgow. Our host showed us in and we were absolutely blown away by the hospitality. He toured the entire flat, had a binder of recommendations and tourist stops, he even showed us how the electric kettle worked. But then it was time to get down to brass tax: Where do we go to eat.
Yes, we had watched our fair share of travel shows leading up to this trip, but if you don’t ask the locals what their favorite restaurant or pub is, you’re frankly an idiot. My husband jokingly said, “How about pizza?” And our host’s eyes lit up. “Oh, you gotta go to Paesano’s.”
So we did.
It was the best thing to eat after a long flight. We were told (and read on the menu) that Paesano Pizza sources everything from Italy to make the most authentic Neapolitan pizza- even the oven. I’m a crust lover and when I tell you I was in pizza crust heaven… just stop. It was BEYOND. We could’ve eaten there literally every night but we had a lot more exploring to do.
That first night we drank our way around the city. We went to The Horseshoe Bar, had a pint or two. Stopped in at Drury Street, had a pint or two. Then we wandered around for a while, saw the monument with the traffic cone on that guy’s head and finally stopped in at Tesco to grab a sixer. We swayed back to the apartment only watch a nude dating show and wake up with achy little heads.
The next day we rented a car to make our way to Inverness. We had booked another Air BnB overlooking Loch Ness. Driving on the other side of the car on the other side of the road was… an experience. But I think we did fairly well! My husband drove and did a great job. I said next to nothing critical regarding his driving so I also did a great job!
After you get out of the city, be prepared to have your breath taken away. I’ve never seen anything quite like the highlands in my life. Gorgeous hills and mountains laced with snow and fog. The grey skies almost make the greens and oranges of the landscape MORE vibrant.
Then it was lunch time.
The trip from Glasgow to Inverness is a little over three hours. Our car rental rep, who was also SO FRIENDLY AND HOSPITABLE recommended we stop at The Green Welly Stop. He was in his twenties and had moved to the city from up north. He said whenever he visited family he always stopped at The Green Welly for a bowl of soup.
So I’m thinking this is a restaurant. Well, it’s not. It’s a rest stop. So what are you thinking? Annie Anne’s, Roy Rogers, Starbucks. Sbarro. Think again.
For lunch we had homemade soup and baked bread. They also have whisky, of course. But that’s in the gift shop.
This glorious bowl of warm, smoky goodness is called Cullen Skink and I fell in love. Made with smoked haddock, potatoes, and onions it was exactly what I was craving on that cold trip.
It’s not exaggeration when I say that I became a woman obsessed. I looked for this soup on every menu and when I finally found it at a different restaurant back in Glasgow on our last night- I was sorely disappointed. Nothing could compare to the skink at The Green Welly. Damn me for trying to make a moment happen twice.
My husband also opted for soup. He chose the less adventurous “Cocky Leeky” which is chicken soup with leeks. Also delicious!
After getting back on the road and stopping for many scenic photos, we finally made it to our bed and breakfast in Drumnadrochit (which I can hardly spell let alone pronounce.) Our hosts we’re, you guessed it, the NICEST people on the planet! And we felt cozy and relaxed during our time there. We filled out a little card for the next day’s breakfast and explored the grounds before making our way to dinner.
We didn’t have plans as to where to go to eat- we originally we’re going to make the trip up north to Ullapool, but our host Simon it would be too dark and not worth the trip. He asked us what types of food we liked (all of it, Simon. Duh.) So he said “If you want something special, I would go to The Lovat.”
This meal was definitely one of the more memorable ones. As Simon promised, it was very special.
That’s award winning haggis, to you.
Listen- I was wary of this. And I can be meh with meat. Especially meat that’s made with the lungs and heart of a lamb and cooked in its own stomach. But when I tell you this was beyond delicious, believe me! It was on the drier side with a beautiful texture and peppery quality that had me sold. Haggis. Don’t pass on it.
We had other great food while in Scotland; Fish and chips, tuna sandwiches on soft buttered bread, yellow lentil soup. It was a beautiful country with the most lovely people and this trip will not be our last.